Day 15 - Should he stay or should he go?

Garrigill to Slaggyford

Today's Miles - 12.4 miles
Today's Ascent -   2070 ft
Today's Descent -   2572 ft
Total Miles so Far - 200.3 miles

Star Team Member: Team Effort!

We have had a bit of a dilemma, here on our Pennine Way adventure. You see, Patrick, 25% of Team Pennine Way, has developed an injury...*sad melodic music*. Paddy has a saw paw! Read on to find out more....

We started off in Garrigill, where we had finished the previous day. We took a footpath that led us along the River South Tyne. Paddy was limping quite severely, and we rang Uncle John to ask him to come and pick Paddy up, as he wasn't looking good. Uncle John agreed that it would be better for Pads if he came home to heal his poorly paw *sad melodic music*. We were very sad and had to accept the loss of Paddy to Team Pennine Way.

South Tyne

It was nice and sunny and walking by the river was beautiful. Of course, now Patrick was making us looking like liars, as he was running like a thoroughbred race horse, frolicking for all it was worth (see picture). After a couple of dips in the river he was back to his usual self, and we were feeling a bit silly.

Following the river

We branched off from the river for a while and walked along a path, and Dad went ahead to see if he could buy Paddy some doggy walking boots-how cute? Leaving Mam and I alone to navigate, we walked along and picked up the path by the river again. Making our way into Alston, we met Dad in a pub, without any doggy boots :-(

Mam and I went ahead to set up the lunch things, and of course went completely the wrong way! oh, well, Dad found us in the end! After lunch by the river we set off to leave Alston.

Leaving Alston

Walking along the road, Paddy started to limp slightly. Typical! We made a huge detour, on the Pennine Way, simply not to walk on the road. This detour took us up a huge hill, and then back down to the river- what a pain! We walked along the South Tyneside Railway for a while and the train passed us a couple of times.

South Tynedale Railway

We passed through a field with plants up to our heads shaped like umbrellas, they were very strange.

Anyone seen Paddy?

After this we reached Slaggyford, after following the road down. But we were not done for the day! the Kirkstyle Inn, our bed for the night was 2 miles out of Slaggyford, yes, 2 MILES! We turned off the Pennine Way to walk along an old railway line parallel to the Pennine Way, a quicker route.

Slaggyford

We were so very tired and those two miles seemed to drag on forever! When we finally reached the Kirkstyle Inn, (Pads leading us in with a spring in his step) we had a well deserved meal and long sleep. Unfortunately, no WiFi though, so this report is delayed- sorry!

Caitlin xx

Day 14 - Cross (-ing the) Fell

Dufton to Garrigill

Today's Miles - 15.6 miles
Today's Ascent -  3592 ft
Today's Descent -  3080 ft
Total Miles so Far - 187.9 miles
Star Team Member - Mam, for taking the lead, and powering up Cross Fell. 

Today was a really tough day! We climbed the highest point on the Pennine Way- Cross Fell. If those of you are more familiar with Lakeland hills, then Cross Fell is about the size of Skiddaw; so quite high, but on top of that we had 16 miles to walk, with our packs, so it is fair to say it was quite hard going. 

Dufton Pike

After a hearty breakfast, we left the cosiness and warmth of our lovely B and B in Dufton, to brave the harsh Pennine elements (Ok, maybe I am exaggerating a bit about the weather!). I feel the cold lots so I felt the wind and had to put on my fleece. We walked along the main road for a short distance then turned off to a country lane, and passed through a farm. Then we started the climb upwards, passed through some fields with cows grazing, and kept walking up and up. We were aiming for the summit of Knock Fell, our first hill of the day, at 2604 ft. We had lots of chocolate and had done 4 miles, 25% of the way, and had gained some hight.

Top of Knock Fell

 We walked (I have never used the words 'we' and 'walked' so many times in my life before!) down from the top of Knock Fell, only to walk up to the top of our next hill, Great Dunn Fell, at a hight of 2780, so we were gradually gaining hight. It had an early warning system station on the top, and it looked a bit like a giant golf ball.

Odd looking cairns- golf anyone?!

From here we walked (there it goes again!) down and then up to Little Dunn Fell, summit three at 2761, just a bit smaller than Great Dunn. i had a stone in my shoe, and there was a handy wind shelter, so I took off my boot, and Dad waited with me, while Mam took the lead up to the top of the big one (how many hills have been branded 'the big one' on this blog? Black Hill, Pen-y-Ghent, and now Cross Fell. Well, Cross fell is the BIG one, so all the others can be 'nearly big ones'.), anyway, back to the topic! Mam took the lead and powered on ahead. Dad said to me "let's go and catch Mam up", but it was impossible! She was marching onward, lulled by the lovely thoughts of her dinner. We got to the summit after a long climb over 8 miles, at about 1:30. We were very pleased with ourselves and the view looking over to the Lake District was amazing, as the weather was perfect. It had not rained the whole way up so we were feeling very good. After sitting the wind shelter and enjoying our lunch we pressed on, with Garigill 8 miles away.

Summit of the Pennines

 We dropped down from Cross Fell and after about 1.5 miles hit a small shelter called Greg's Hut. I asked if there were any pasties, but unfortunately not. We popped in and signed the visitors book and had a break with 5.5 miles to go.

Gregg's Hut (no cheese pasties)

We joined a rocky track that would take us all the way down to our final destination for the day. It was very lumpy and bumpy, and not easy underfoot, but we kept going. We walked along this road, it was tediously long, and turned corner to see Garigill. Cross Fell was always looming behind us, reminding us of the previous climb done today.

Looking back to Cross Fell

With 1.5 miles to go, we thought we were on the home straight, the village was in touching distance, a mere 3 fields away, but then the road turned right!? It took us the long way round after that tediously long bumpy road, it was such a pain!

Garrigill still 1 mile away

With our feet on fire, we reached the village (finally!) to a J20 and cider bought by Dad, who walked ahead, and our two fellow Pennine Wayfarer friends, Petra and Emma. We got a taxi to Alston, and got out of the car like robots, we were so stiff. Pads especially!

The end of a long day

We said farewell to our German friend Petra, she is walking to Greenhead, while we only go to Slaggyford (don't snigger!). I am going to stiffly walk to bed and get some rest, to wake up revitalized for tomorrows walk to Slaggyford (not funny!)

Caitlin xx 

Day 13 - Caught out!

Langdon Beck to Dufton

Today's Miles - 13.1
Today's Ascent -  1876 ft
Today's Descent -  2611 ft
Total Miles so Far - 172.3
Star Team Member - Great team effort!

We set off from YHA Langdon Beck, at about 10 o'clock. We walked through a few fields (cows too!) and joined the Tees again, and followed it round the bend to a place called Widdybank Farm.

Widdybank Farm

From here we walked along some boulder fields, and had to do a lot of clambering, to get along. Falcon c
Clints were on our right, lots of jagged rocks, and we even saw some sort of bird of prey.

Falcon Clints

 We kept following the river along and turned the corner to see the beautiful Cauldron Snout (funny name, but amazing waterfall!). It was just tucked away and looked lovely and really spectacular just billowing and gushing. We stopped for a break, admiring the view of the waterfall. Personally, we all agreed that we preferred Cauldron Snout to Low or High Force and it was a highlight of the trip.

Cauldron Snout (lower)

We started to climb quite steeply up some rocks, but Pads had a bit of difficulty so Dad took him on a different path, while Mam and I clambered upward. We walked to the top of the waterfall to reach Cow Green Reservoir.

Cauldron Snout (upper)

We had a nice view back along the Tees and we walked along the tops, and started to climb uphill for quite  while but walked on. We stopped for lunch after walking 6 miles.

Looking back down to the Tees

After lunch we walked down to Maize Beck, where there was a new bridge built for Pennine Wayfarers. We crossed the bridge and walked over the other side waiting for High Cup Nick to open out. We had a mile to go to High Cup and couldn't wait to see the apparently fabulous view.

The new bridge over Maize Beck

We walked along, and suddenly it just opened up before us. It was really amazing, so we deserved a break to admire the view.

High Cup

We walked down the the right side of the valley and started to drop down. A shower started and we got a bit wet as we walked down through the fields to Dufton. We reached the road and the heavens just opened! It just rained and rained, with only a mile to go. We couldn't believe our fate! We walked down into Dufton, and of course, our B and B had to be the last one in the village!

Dufton

We arrived sopping wet, but had a lovely bath and meal, and we are now ready for bed!
Tomorrow is the big one.... Dad says if Mam and I make it to Garigil we will complete the Pennine Way! Honestly, he has no confidence in us!

See you tomorrow (if, according to Dad, we make it!),
Caitlin :-)

Day 12- How very T-eesy!

Middleton in Teesdale to Langdon Beck

Today's Miles - 9.0
Today's Ascent -  1778 ft
Today's Descent -  1358 ft
Total Miles so Far - 159.2
Star Team Member - Sherpa Dad for carrying out the complicated business of dropping off the car, picking up Paddy, catching the bus etc...

Today was our shortest day up to date, and a very enjoyable one too. Dad is form Teesdale, so enjoyed walking through the Dales he grew up in and reminiscing past endeavors he has had. As we only had 9 miles to go, we decided to leave later on, and have a well deserved lie in!

   

Leaving Middleton

After a cup of tea in the cafe, we left Middleton at about 12 o'clock and walked back down to the Cattle Mart where we finished yesterday. We passed the field center on the left, where I have stayed before, on a Year 5 residential trip. 

The Field Center at Middleton

While on this trip, I walked a stretch of the Pennine Way, so I knew where to turn left after crossing the bridge. We walked through a few fields and passed over a small bridge crossing a tiny tributary stream, and Mam promptly asked "Is this the river Tees?". No, Mam, the river Tees is quite a lot larger than that! We joined up with the river and Paddy had a swim in it. He is very familiar with the river Tees, as Uncle John and Auntie Karen take him for walks in Gainford by the river lots. 

Walking along the Tees

We were walking through beautiful fields with lots of wild flowers in them. There were bluebells and buttercups, as well as thistles and it was really lovely. 

Flowers along the paths

We passed some stone sheep and soon we were at Low Force. There were lots of people around as it was a nice day, and some were swimming in the river and jumping off the top. I think walking the Pennine Way is thrilling enough, thank you! We stopped for lunch, and moved onward to High Force, a further 1.75 miles away. We were really enjoying it and we didn't have far to go. we veered off a bit from the Tees but soon rejoined it after more fields of wild flowers. 

Low Force

WE heard High Force before we saw it. The rush of the water and the sound it made as it hit the plunge pool was very loud, so we knew we were near. We walked off the path to a viewpoint and had 5 to look at the great view....

High Force

And of course take some pictures!

Made it this far!

We stuck to the Tees, but it was much calmer and quieter. We passed a quarry mine on the other side of the river, but other than that, the Dales were ours. 

We went up and over a little hill, and with 2 miles to go, we could see the youth hostel we were staying at. We had a quick break then pushed onward. There was a big field of cows (honestly, I think the farmers do it just to annoy us walkers!) and they were standing round the gate, so we did  a bit of a traverse that took us away form the gate, but we still ended up in the field. We used our technique but some excitable bullocks started running at Dad and Paddy, (seeing Dad run was very funny!), but they were a long way off and went back to eating there grass. We crossed Langdon Beck and walked along the river for a while. 

Langdon Beck

We walked up and across to YHA Langdon Beck, all with spectacular views of Upper Teesdale in the glorious sunshine. 

Upper Teesdale

We got to the youth hostel at about 5 o'clock, making a very enjoyable day of walking come to an end. Tomorrow we walk to Dufton, leaving Teesdale, regrettably behind. Only another 10 days to go! See you tomorrow,

Caitlin x 

Day 11 - Staying Positive

Bowes to Middleton in Teesdale

Today's Miles - 11.9
Today's Ascent -  1909 ft
Today's Descent -  2129 ft
Total Miles so Far - 150.2
Star Team Member - Paddy, for picking himself up and lifting everyone's spirits (as well as learning how to get over stiles in the dry stone walls in rather incredible ways!).

Today was our first day of rain, but nevertheless we are staying positive, unlike Alfred Wainwright! In his book, 'Pennine Way Companion' (a definite recommendation if you are planning to walk the PW) at the back he reflects upon his journey. I thought I would put a short extract from it in;

' Well,I'm glad it's finishes, I must say. I mean the walking, not the making of the book, which has been very enjoyable.... Surely I must have been unlucky about the rain! I spent 18 months on the Pennine Way.... Mostly it rained- pouring rain, driven rain, rain that came down like stair rods. I came to pray not for fine days, which seemed too much to ask, but for gentle and not-too-wetting rain.'

On that pleasant note, let me tell you about today's walk....

We started off with a bit of drizzly rain and lots of fog. We walked over the A66 and then started to walk across Cotherstone Moor. The first 4 miles quickly went and we were optimistic about the rain, now dying down.

A bleak start but follow the signs

We passed a cool house with  a thatched roof- you don't see many of them nowadays. Mam liked how it was a bit wonky and very 'picture book' like.

Levy Pool

We had a break underneath Goldsborough Crags, but pushed on as lunch was 2 miles away.

Goldsborough

I cannot let this post past without mentioning Patrick's rather spectacular mission impossible stile move, used to get over the fence. It was quite something. There are lots of styles built in to dry-stone walls, with some stones jutting out like steps to ascend. On this particular style the was a plank of wood at the top of these stone steps that the walker had to step over before descending over the other side. This made it hard for Paddy as he couldn't get both feet on to the top to go over. So, feet on the second step he put his head under the plank of wood and shimmied through to the other side. It was rather spectacular. Well deserved of star team member-Tom Cruise, watch out!

Baldersdale

At six miles we stopped for lunch in Hannah's Meadow, a wild beautiful meadow with long grass and wild flowers, named after Hannah Hauxwall, the TV star! We had walked through Baldersdale for the duration of the day, but came to a Grasholme reservoir with a big bridge over it, leading us into Lunedale. We joined a little road and followed it up through a farm where we went over a style, and Pads went through the gate. We avoided some scary cows and moved on.

Grasholme Bridge

If you have ever been to Middleton before, you will know that there is a small hill with a clump of trees overlooking the village. It is called Kirk Carrion, and is very lovely. We walked towards the hill and joined the ridge but dipped down before we got to the summit.

Kirk Carrion

Middleton-in-Teesdale was in sight, only 1.25 miles to go! We slowly made our way down, and did some singing to boost morale, until we reached the Cattle Mart where a taxi picked us up to take us back to Bowes, from where we drove the car to Staindrop and spent the night with grandad eating Domino's Pizza; guilt free! Yum yum!

Finishing in Middleton

Overall, a really enjoyable day, with lots of things to see. Tomorrow we walk past Low and High Force to Langdon Beck. We are staying in a Youth Hostel, so I can't promise a blog for tomorrow, as they may not have WiFi, but one will be posted whenever I can. See you then,

Caitlin :-)

Day 10 - Half Way-Mark!

Keld to Bowes

Today's Miles - 13.1
Today's Ascent - 2165 ft
Today's Descent - 2286 ft
Total Miles so Far - 138.3
Star Team Member - Sherpa Dad for finally biting the bullet and joining in with 3 lines of our usual ABBA classics!

Today we reached the half way point in our adventure! Reflecting back upon the previous 10 days walking we all agreed that it seems a long time ago since we were leaving Edale, but all of the days have sort of merged into one. This may be hard for you to understand, but hopefully you get what I mean. 

We left Keld and retraced the steps we took coming into Keld yesterday, except we were leaving the quaint village.

Leaving Keld

We walked down to the river Swale and Paddy had his usual morning swim. There were two lovely waterfalls to look at, so we had a quick look and continued on.

Down by the River Swale

It was getting quite foggy as we turned onto a farm track road that took us uphill. Dad helped some coast to Coasters on the wrong route, and having looked at the waterfalls we were off to a slow start. But we kept going as the pub was only 2 or 3 miles away (ATCF).

A gloomy climb

We reached the pub at about 12 o'clock, having walked 4 miles since Keld. The Tan Hill Inn is the highest pub in England, and it was lunch time, so we couldn't walk past! We had some chips and a drink then continued on, with 8 miles to go. Tan Hill claims to be halfway on the Pennine Way, but there is still a bit of uncertainty to how long the walk actually is. Some say it is 267, other 268 and Wainwright himself saying 270. Assuming the walk is 268 miles, the pub is half way.

Nearly Halfway House 

There was a nice poetry board outside too.

Poetry Board

We walked across a lot of moorland over to Bowes on our way. Some D of E lads were stuck so we pointed them the right way, and the river ran by us so Pads had constant splashes. It was a bit boring as the moorland went on forever, and the path was not very clean.

Sleightholme Moor

We had a close encounter with some cows (again!) and soon Bowes was in sight. We walked up a little hill and I did my rendition of the Sound of Music "The dales are alive with the sound of baa-ring". We were finally here! It seemed a long day for only 13 miles, but we had pulled through.

Bowes

We hopped in the car (parked by Uncle John) and drove to our hotel in Middleton (where we walk tomorrow). We are doubling back again as there was nowhere that would take Pads in Bowes.

See you tomorrow,
Caitlin xx

Day 09 - No Mean Feet

Hawes to Keld

Today's Miles - 12.8
Today's Ascent - 2775 ft
Today's Descent - 2536 ft
Total Miles so Far - 125.2
Star Team Member - General team effort.

Today we had a lie in... yes, a lovely sweet lie in! It was all warm and snugly and was the first lie in I have had for a while (9 days). It was only to 8:30, but still! We had our breakfast and, as Hawes is quite a big place, had a look around the shops. I bought some postcards, a magazine, a pen and some chewing gum. I have been absolutely desperate for a 'piggy on the bladder' or water system. Water is stored in a bag then a tube is fed through that you can suck on to get the water. Hawes provided one! The outdoor shop was supplied with many, and I had the 1.5 litre container. Mam's little feet are not managing too well, so we bought her some superfeet, that seem to be working really well :-). We stopped off at a posh sandwich shop to get our bait, and set off.

Our room was opposite Hawes church so we had a nice view. Piggy on the bladder (to be refereed to as POTB) intact, we set off at about 11 o'clock from Hawes.

Hawes Church

We walked through the village and walked along a few country lanes to a small village called Hard Row.

Leaving Hawes

We saw a quaint memorial sheep dog wall, with the name of each deceased dog and the year it died marked on a stone. I thought it was a bit depressing, but Mam and Dad found it a lovely gesture. We crossed the road, after Pads had a splash in the river, and turned off to start to ascend Great Shunner Fell-the big one. (Pen-y-Ghent may have been branded the big one; I can't remember?) Oh well, Great Shunner is the highest point reached so far on the walk, at 2341ft.

Memorial Sheepdog Wall

We plodded along the road, past some cows (technique used successfully) and kept going until we had two miles to go until the top. Now, please understand that 2 miles to the top is 'As the crow flies' (ATCF), not 'As the Thomas Flies' (ATTF), which is considerably a longer distance, so it turned out to be about 3 miles to until we got to the top.

Yummy posh sandwiches were for lunch, and last night, Uncle John bought some provisions, one being Krispy Kreme Doughnuts. I am a bit obsessed, so these were delicious at the top (Thanks uncle John!). We also had some M and M's off Grandma, and they were nice too.

Feeding time on top of Great Shunner Fell

With 6 miles to go (ATCF) we marched down Great Shunner and the road started to flatten out. We were quickly making up the miles and I had finished my first 1.5 litres of water in my POTB, so got a litre refill.

Looking back to Great Shummer Fell

We could see the lovely view, down the valley into Swaledale and only had 4 miles to go.

Forward to Swaledale

We dropped down into Thwaite and had a mere 2 miles to go into Keld. We had another climb to ascend up and over into Keld, but honestly, it was the longest 2 miles I have ever walked; It seemed to go on forever! But finally we walked up into Keld to be greeted by the lady from the guest house and a lovely bath. Mam's feet feeling sore but intact- hurrah for superfeet!

Keld at Last

Tomorrow we go to Bowes, and County Durham-home at last! (except we have to walk past up into Northumberland).See you tomorrow,

Caitlin x