Reflections....

I thought I would write a post looking back on my Pennine Way journey at some of the highs and lows. So, here it is!

I am going to start with a topic that the British love to talk about- the weather. I think it would be unfair to say we had bad weather on our journey, but that heat at the beginning of our walk was too much to handle!

The arrival of the much needed cool drinks! (Day 04 Hebden Bridge to Haworth)

The heat was blisteringly hot and we all suffered, Paddy especially. We were finding it hard in our wick-away tops and thin trousers, but he must have been really struggling in his thick, black fur coat. To touch it was very hot, and on the first few days there were little opportunities to cool him down in the river or stream.

Taking a break at the CLOSED pub in Lothersdale (Day 05 Haworth to Thornton in Craven)

The second week of walking was perfect- not to cold, nor the blistering heat we were used to, and by that time we were used to the routine; eat, sleep, eat ,walk. But on day 13 coming into Dufton the heavens opened and we got drenched, with 0.5 miles to go. On the last day we had torrential rain coming up and down Windy Gyl but the sun was shining when we walked into Kirk Yetholm.

Togged up for the rain (Day 22 Barrowburn to Kirk Yetholm)

 So, overall, the weather was good!

Next I am going to write about our favourite day, and our least favourite day. We all agree that the best day was Day 12, Middleton in Teesdale to Langdon Beck. It was a short day and Teesdale was at it's best. Teesdale was probably the closest to home, but this wasn't why we enjoyed it so much. The Tees was beautiful in the sun and Pads had lots of chances to dip in, the wild flowers and long grass were stunning and Low and High Force were, as always, spectacular.

"Onwards to Kirk Yetholm!" The stone sheep

 Oh yeah, and the stone sheep on the way were fun too! (Paddy looks a bit confused!)

The Tees with its wild flower banks

Our least favourite day Day 06, Thornton in Craven to Malham. If you remember correctly, the day with the many encounters with the wild beasts of the Pennines. it was a nightmare! It was only 11.5 miles, but it just took us forever, as we were constantly slowed down by the evil things. It is fair to say, that day 06, left our milk tasting sour! (Get it?!) 

Up next is the low point; that bog! If you are reading this now thinking ;Which bog?', then go back to day 20, Bellingham to Byrness and read that post. Oh yes, that was one mean bog. 1 and 1/2 hours of trudging through sludge, squelching boots and low spirits. Of course, Paddy was loving every minute of frolicking back and forth in the mud, but I am sorry to say, not us. I have no picture to show you of the man eating bog, as it may burn your eyes, it is so horrendously ugly. 

We all absolutely loved Cauldrons Snout (or Cauldrons Spout as Mam calls it?!) and High Cup Nick into Dufton, these were our high points. We all agreed that Cauldrons Snout was far superior to the two, more famous waterfalls seen on the previous day. It was really beautiful, the water billowed down and then fanned out at the bottom, giving a fuller effect that High Force. Slightly less beautiful, was the steep climb up the side to follow...

                       Cauldrons Snout

High Cup Nick was also spectacular. We had a great day for it so could see for miles, and the way the two hills sweeped down to meet at the river was stunning. 

High Cup

Another great feeling was the top of Cross Fell. It was great to know we had made it to the highest point and if, that is a big if, we made it to Garygill, Dad thought we stood a chance of making it. 

Top of Cross Fell (Day 14 Dufton to Garygill)

Upon reflecting back on my Pennine Way journey, I am filled with happy memories. I had a great time, and despite the low points (crying on the yellow brick road!) I can honestly say I had a great time. I am enjoying 11 0'clock lie ins, and getting my books back (too heavy to carry, and lets be frank, e-books are really not the same!), and the most strenuous walking I have done is from the sofa to turn the TV on! Walking for me clears the mind and refreshes me, and it's a great way to exercise (and eat what you want guilt free!) and spend time with your family. So, i encourage you to get out there and do some walking! It doesn't have to be the Pennine Way, it could just be walking the dog, but the benefits you feel are great.

 I can tell you that Paddy slept the whole day back at home, but I have been taking him for lots of walks to the field. He was very excited when he saw me on Tuesday- sorry Pads, no 16 mile walk for you today!  

A big thank you to everyone who sponsored me, but also to everyone who made the effort to come and see us along the way- your support really made all the difference!

So, thanks again for reading my blog, I hope you enjoyed it. I am running out of inspirational quotes to end on so it will just have to be me saying thanks and a few nice pictures! 

Thanks again,

Caitlin xxx 

Day 22 - The end of the road...

Barrowburn to Kirk Yetholm

Today's miles: 14.4
Today's Ascent: 3093 ft
Today's Descent: 3638 ft
Total miles so far: 280.6 (more than expected!)
Star team member:  Team effort. No explanation needed!

Well folks, we made it. We did it. Despite all the odds and the doubts, we did it. Upon asking my Grandad if he thought I would do it, there was a long silence, and finally, after a lot of thought, he said "Well, It's very hard." My Grandma has been collecting money at the Trefoil Guild for the NEAS and most people have said "Well, I will wait to see if she does it before I pay". So there! To all the un-believers- I did it!

We were given a lift from our hut to Trows Farm, to climb back up Windy Gyl, back on to the Pennine Way. This lift was a massive help as it saved us 1.5 miles, and believe me 1.5 miles makes all the difference! We started to climb Windy Gyl in the wind and rain, but trudged up to the top for 10 o'clock.

Trows Farm - the start of the last leg

After a piece of chocolate and a break from the horrendous weather we plodded along the limestone pavements in the rain. We were heading for a hill called The Schil, but first we went partly up The Cheviot then turned off, still along the limestone paving slabs.

The rain came

We could see The Schil, about 5 miles away and walked along a ridge. The rain had stopped but in it's place came the wind! It was like a gale, we had to walk down for a while, and at one point thought we were going to be blown away, it was that strong. Clad in our waterproofs to keep the icy wind off we stopped for a break then walked up to a bothy (wooden shelter). There were already people in it, and it could only fit about 2 people inside so we stopped outside, because the sun had started to shine.

Looks like one walker had not made it to the end!

We could see the ridge we had to walk to reach the summit so got a move on, Paddy and I leading the way. Paddy always likes to be in front of the pack, but he hates it if anyone is lagging behind, so he spends all his time going forward and back.

Superdog!

Finally the sun came out, and we were met by a great view on the way up. Up the ridge we went and found a little rock cubby hole at the topwhere we could eat our lunch.

View on the way up The Schill

From the top (it was still a bit windy) we dropped down and hit a track down the hill side, and sang some Beatles classics, as well as that well know wartime song "it's a long way to Kirk Yetholm, it's a long way to go!". Mam and I sang, for the last time 'There was an old lady who swallowed a fly', and I did a suitably dramatic death at the end. Finally we saw our first sign post pointing the way to Kirk Yetholm and, as we were in Scotland, Mam and I did a little jig to some (imaginary) bagpipes. What larks!

Kirk Yetholm on the PW sign at last!

We turned off and went around a hillside and onto a farm road where we had our last stop, with 2 miles to go (Well a signpost said we had 2 miles to go, and that was quite a way back, but we were going with Dad's boy toy SatMap, which I think is all lies!). The road took us up a hill that Wainwright entitles 'The cruellest hill of all'. I can agree on that matter, it was pretty cruel! It was the last hill of our journey and it went on forever.

The last hill

After climbing the cruellest hill of all, we walked along the road to be greeted by our first sight of Kirk Yetholm. I had a little cry, as it was a sight I knew I would always see (Grandad wasn't so sure!), but still it seemed a bit surreal.

The first view of Kirk Yetholm

We followed the road down and into Kirk Yetholm. There was no brass band to fanfare us in, nor someone waiting with one of those silver foil things you get at the end of marathons, but we had our pride, and a euphoric feeling of achievement. The church bells did chime to mark 5 o'clock though! We walked to the Border pub, the official end and had a few well deserved drinks as well as signing the book. We met some fellow Pennine Wayfarers at the pub, who we had seen a couple of times, and exchanged some happy memories of the walk we had just done.

The end of the road

Mam promptly took her boots off, and said they wouldn't be going back on for quite a while! Of course, we had to take our picture at the end. We were in a bit of a trance, not quite believing that we had actually done it. We always believed in ourselves, but we had our doubts about Paddy; he must have heard us talking on the phone to Uncle John, and the prospect of possibly having to wear doggy walking boots (what a shame!) and pulled himself together.

A team effort!

So folks. This is the end! I would like to thank everyone for sponsoring and supporting me, and your lovely kind comments, texts and e-mails have really helped us along. So, thank you for taking the time to read this blog (and staying up so late!), but why not join me for one last time? I am going to write a post reflecting on my journey so you could read that, if you haven't had enough by now! I would like to end on the words of Alfred Wainwright, as he sums up my feelings exactly;

'You have completed a mission and achieved an ambition.... This will be a very satisfying moment in your life. You will be tired and hungry and travel stained. But you will feel great, just great.
There is no brass band to greet you; there is nobody waiting to pin a medal on your breast. Nobody cares that you have walked, and just completed the Pennine Way....
It will be the same when you get back home. When you tell your friends you have walked the Pennine Way they will not jump for joy: more likely they will look at you out of the corner of their eyes and whisper among themselves....
You will be more ready to tackle big ventures and more able to bring them to a successful conclusion. You have learned not to give up. You will be a better man because you have walked the Pennine Way.'  

Thanks again,
Caitlin xxxxx (I would put 268 kisses but maybe that's a bit excessive so 5 will have to do!)

Day 21 - Pen (inne) ultimate

Byrness - Barrowburn

Today's miles: 16.7
Today's Ascent: 3500 ft
Today's Descent: 3448 ft
Total miles so far: 266.2
Star team member: (Affiliated) Hayleigh and Neil for pulling out all the stops to bring us food.

Well, today was our penultimate day! I really don’t know whether I am happy or sad, I mean, I will be so happy doing absolutely nothing! But I will miss travelling from place to place, but definitely not walking consecutively every day! Anyway, apologies for the late post, we were staying in a deer hut with no WiFi or mains electricity .

We set off from our B and B and walked along the road to join the PW . We had a steep uphill climb to do, to climb out of Byrness, through all the ferns and along a narrow path.

Walking up through the Forest

We passed some chopped down trees and passed a bizarre telly on a post- a bit weird?! We continued on up and passed some big boulders hanging over the edge. We reached the ridge at the top, the sun was out and the breeze was blowing.

Border TV (no cricket)

There is quite a big, well known reservoir called Kielder, and we had a great view of it from here. I think if you could bottle happiness, my little bottle would be walking along a ridge, with amazing panoramic views, and the sun shining and the breeze blowing. It really is a great feeling and one that has to be experienced to be believed and understood.

View of Kielder

Up next was ‘man eating bog- part 2’. Joyce and Colin had already pre warned us about this
, so we were given an alternate route that happily took past the bogs. We crossed the border into bonnie Scotland, the wee bogs had not got the better of us lads and lasses (and dog!).

Crossing the border  - no passport required (yet)

After passing the border we walked along the ridge, and a sign said to watch out for some wild ‘Ferrell Goats’. Unfortunately we didn’t see any- what a let down! We crossed a bridge then walked a few more miles then had our lunch. 

Wilderness

We could see Windy Gyle, about 4 miles away. We walked onto the top of a little hill, really a ridge connection to Windy Gyle. We stopped for a break (we stop to stock up on chocolate every 2 miles or so) to prepare ourselves, then walked up to the much needed wind shelter. 

A much needed break

It was very windy, but the wind shelter provided some protection.

Top of Windy Gyle

The day was really beautiful, not too cold, nor to hot so we could see for miles. Paddy rolled around on the grass then played dead.

View from the top

This is where we left the PW for today, as literally we were in the middle of nowhere, so we had to walk an extra 3 miles. Our feet were really hurting, and the miles dropping off Windy Gyl dragged o forever, but a bit of singing and we hit the farm track in the bottom of the valley. It was really beautiful as we walked along the river and the light was golden on the Cheviots. Oh, this reminds me; Why, why oh why, if we are walking the Pennine, I repeat Pennine, Way, why are we walking along the Cheviots? Why? Anyway, we reached our accommodation for the night; the Deer Hut. No, it is not just a hut, as I thought, but a nice little house with kitchen and bedrooms and a HUGE bath. Hayleigh and Neil, mentioned before, bought us some food and had a nice chat in our hut.

Well, see you tomorrow (or today, or now if you are reading my next post now) for our last day- it promises to be a good one!

Caitlin xx

Day 20 - Back to Reality...

Bellingham to Byness

Today's miles: 16.4
Today's Ascent: 3195
Today's Descent: 2890
Total miles so far: 249.5
Star team member:  Mam for getting over her blues, and helping others through theirs!

Today, I had my moment of fame! No, I was not pictured on the telly, trudging through peat bogs covered in blood, sweat and tears (I look like this everyday, but clean myself up for the pictures!), no, my name was not printed in large on a poster streaming from an aeroplane, but I was on the radio! Yes, me, on the radio!

Anyway, back to more normal matters. Today we had 16 miles to walk, 3 times more pain than yesterday! It was really tough. It wasn't like we were gentle eased in from, say, 12 miles to 16 miles, oh no. We had yesterday's 5 mile stroll and then BAM! 16.4 (Oh yes, that point 4 makes ALL the difference!) miles. Quite a difference. 

We walked into Bellingham and bought some more chocolate for the journey (that is all we survive on, no really!) and I bought 2 'Aussie 3 minute miracle hair re-constructor' sachets for tonight- Both Mam and I are in need of a bit of luxury! We carried them to stop Dad complaining, and we walked out of Bellingham and walked along the road for a while.

Leaving Bellingham

We turned off into some fields and I got a call from Lisa, at the NEAS asking if I wanted to to a radio interview. Did I say yes? (Well you already know I did) Of course I did! We started to walk upwards when BBC Newcastle rang, and I did my interview having done 3 miles. I was a bit nervous, but everyone was really supportive and lovely. Stardom over, but the show must go on! *bu dum ch* Get it? *sigh* Never mind....

A way to go!

We walked up to our first hill, but still had a way to go. The weather was overcast, but warm and humid, and we plodded on. We walked down from the top of our first hill onto some limestone pavements, which we quickly powered along. Dad calls them escalators, except you still have to move to actually get anywhere. We passed some ponies, who were very interested in Paddy, but Farmer Giles, using my walking pole, turned round and pointed at them menacingly. Help Factor; 0. 

Exmoor poines, a long way from home

Up and over the top we stopped to have our lunch, then plodded on. We dropped down and had a steep climb, sticking to the edge of the forest, we knew what we had to do, and we got on with it. With the cows on the other side we walked on to reach the top. 

A bleak view

The view was lovely, if not a bit bleak. Little did we know the hell that was coming...

The man eating bogs. They went on and on and on and on and on.... forever! They were deep and squelchy, with no way round them, it would be fine if they went on for 10 minutes, but no, we squelched through for 1 hour and a half. 2 and a half miles usually takes us about 1 hour, but it was so difficult it took us an extra 30 mins. It was truly horrible, Mam was felling really down in the dumps, but at the sight of a well anticipated road we all cheered up. 

With 5 mile to go on the road, we kept our speed up and walked along the yellow brick road. I hit rock bottom. There is no other way to put it. I cried and said I wanted it to stop and I wanted to go home. Mam reminded me of who I was doing it for, and why, and after a bit of singing, my spirits were back to normal. 

Follow the yellow brick road

After stopping to fuel up on chocolate eclairs we marched on the road and entered Kielder Forest. This was probably the nicest part of the walk, even when the midges were out. Paddy had a swim and there were plenty of sticks for him to catch, and coming out of the forest we crossed a bridge and walked along the road to what was supposedly Byrness, but no. Byrness was another half a mile along a woodland path! Oh how my feet ached! Every step was painful and the road seemed to go on forever, but eventually we got to our B and B, to be greeted by our two lovely hosts, who made an amazing curry.

Byrness at last (except Byrness was 0.5 miles form here)

The Aussie hair mask ended up staying on for 30 seconds, instead of 3 minutes, as Mam complained I was using all the hot water. Anyway, I am in need of a long sleep to get ready for tomorrow...

To listen to me on the radio click on this link; http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01ckbln (I am on after 1hour 14 minutes - only available for 7 days)

See you tomorrow for the penultimate day, hopefully there will be some reception but I am not sure.

Caitlin :-)

Day 19 - A Gentle Stroll

Wark to Bellingham

Today's miles: 5.2 (only 5.2!)
Today's Ascent: 734
Today's Descent: 958
Total miles so far: 233.1
Star team member: Dad, for organising such a short day! 

News Update on Paddy: I know a lot of you will be breathing a sigh of relief when I tell you that Paddy is on the mend. Personally, I think it was the BioOil I so lovingly rubbed on his poorly paw, but i think the rain and lots of dips in the river did him good. 

Well, what can I say? Today was short and simple, and very very enjoyable (because of the two factors mentioned, probably!). Most Pennine Wayfarers generally tend to walk from Twice Brewed to Bellingham, a total of 13 miles, but as the last 3 days after that are really hard (16,16,18), Sherpa Dad made the decision to split Twice Brewed to Bellingham, meaning today was only 5.2 miles; great decision Dad!

We set off from where we left off yesterday, and climbed the stile into the rolling fields. We walked through the fields, past lots and lots of sheep, and Paddy found a rather large stick, that he had to leave behind when it wouldn't fit through the gate.

Ambitious Paddy

We walked through the fields (this is going to be an occurrence for today- because that is basically all we did! Oh well, I will try to glorify it a bit for you!) Here is a nice picture for you to look at while I try to think of a way to glorify fields...

Still going strong

I just would like to say a bit thank you to Sherpa Dad, who has taken all the photographs of our journey, they are pretty good, i have to say. Of course the best picture was the one that I took, of the Wild Beasts of the Pennines, back on day 06; http://caitlinspw.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/day-06-moo-ving-on.html clearly the best.

Anyway, we walked down to a footbridge and I nearly fell down the bank into the river while throwing stones for Paddy (not funny Dad), and continued on to climb Shitlington Crags (I am going to be totally mature about this because it is NOT funny.  Hilarious!). From here we stopped and had a break, with a mere 2 miles to go. Usually 5 miles on a normal 12 miles day seems to go on forever, but not today! I wonder why....

Looking back from Shitlington Crags *snigger*

We walked through a few more fields, with Bellingham in sight.

Bellingham

It was a simple matter of walking down the hill, through some heather, past some cows until we hit the main road that took us into Bellingham.

Walking down to Bellingham

The road wasn't particularly pleasant walking, but it got us there quickly. We crossed a bridge over the North Tyne (Alston was the South Tyne), and walked down to our hotel in Bellingham.

The North Tyne

We didn't really know what to do with ourselves, having never got to our destination so early (3 hours!), it was 2 o'clock. The hotel had a swimming pool, but when you are walking the Pennine Way, you do not have room in your pack for luxuries like swimming costumes. Apparently not! Sherpa Dad had bought his without telling Mam and I! Luckily, (for Sherpa Dad's sake!) the hotel had some spares, so we had a swim, then went into Bellingham to stock up on chocolate.

Tomorrow, a much harder day, 16 miles, so a more detailed post is definite.
See you tomorrow,

Caitlin x

Day 18 -The Walk to Wark

Once Brewed to Wark

Today's miles: 9.9

Today's Ascent: 1870
Today's Descent: 2178
Total miles so far: 227.9
Star team member: Organiser Mam for keeping going despite the sore heels and doing all our washing. 

A short walk today (only 10 miles!) We started off after our breakfast walking along the Roman Wall, the weather was rather miserable as we climbed the hills overlooking Crag Lough (we must be near Scotland). We past the sycamore tree used in the Robin Hood film (no merry men) before leaving the wall behind.

The Sycamore Tree

 After crossing some fields we entered Wark forest, a flat path compared to the ups and downs of the wall. The forest was a wide track and easy going, no midges so far.

Entering the Forest

We passed through a big field of cows and had our lunch. Finally pushing on to the road just outside Wark.

A different view today

The shortest day tomorrow, only 5 miles to Bellingham, yipee! Sorry to be brief blog, a dodgy wifi connection tonight.

Day 17 - Hit the Wall!

Greenhead to Once Brewed

Today's Miles -  7 miles
Today's Ascent -  1863  ft
Today's Descent -    1391 ft
Total Miles so Far -  218 miles
Star Team Member: Caitlin, for her inventive recreation of classics!

Today we had a lovely walk! It was more like a stroll, really, but still we thoroughly enjoyed it, despite the rain. A nice surprise was, my sister Hayleigh and her best friend Neil joined us to walk a stretch of the walk- a really nice day. I think, in the nicest way possible, that we all get a bit tired of the same ABBA songs and small talk, so it is nice to have some different company!

We were taken to the point we finished yesterday, by the lovely man from the B and B we were staying at. We walked along a path by the river and over a bridge to Thirlwall Castle, where we walked on to a visitor centre and the rain started to pour down on us.

Thirlwall Castle

We walked up a little hill,waterproofs on, to hit Hadrien's Wall. It was really stunning to think of all those Roman soldiers marching up and down the 15ft high barricade, dreaming of warm weather and olive oil! But here it was in front of us today, a bit worn down, but still the same wall. 

The Wall!

I exhausted 'but after all..... We're on Hadriens Wall' yesterday, so came up with the ingenious 'All in all, it's just another brick in Hadrien's Wall', that well known Pink Floyd tune. 

The Wall and Me

We followed the wall in the pouring rain, up hills, then down them again. We stopped for a break, and rang Hayleigh and Neil, to find they were still in the car park at Twice Brewed, our destination for the day, sheltering from the pouring rain. We got to the top of a particularly large hill, to look back upon the view.

The view

We walked down the hill, to reach a road that we crossed over to a lovely warm cafe that had a shop selling sandwiches toilet block, that gave us a bit of shelter from the rain, that by now was on and off. Feeling a bit let down by this toilet block, we walked up a hill to see Hayleigh and Neil walking towards us, carrying gravy bones for Paddy and sherbet lemons for us. From here we had 3 miles to go, and we had great company, so the miles seemed to disappear quickly, along with the rain! Still some light showers every now and then, but nowhere near as severe as before. Up and down a few more hills, still following the wall. The trees in the next picture are where we were heading, where Hayleigh and Neil had parked their car, and Twice Brewed (we have stayed in some places with unusual names on our journey!) We got to the car park and Neil drove us to the pub, for a well earned drink, then back to our B and B.

Looking forward to tomorrow

Well folks, only 5 days to go! Dad said today "I wish we were still at Hebden Bridge (Day 03: http://caitlinspw.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/day-03-flat-out-no-hills-today.html) and the adventure was still to come!" Honestly, is he mad? Yes, I will miss the adventure, but certainly not the prospect of having 19 days of non stop walking ahead of me!

See you tomorrow, on our 18th day- can you believe it?! (I can't, but my feet definitely can!)
Caitlin x